Episode 25 Geoff van Sonsbeeck – Baukjen

What we talk about

[03:12] Geoff tells us about how he and his wife founded Isabella Oliver back in 2003. They were disappointed by the poor quality and durability of maternity wear in the UK. Isabella Oliver was the first fashion vertical in the UK, selling only through e-commerce. Quality of both design and materials was crucial. They aimed to sell a small capsule collection of well-designed clothes that would last for years.

A decade later, Baukjen was launched, aiming to create ‘lifetime value’ by offering ‘slow fashion’ that would mean happy customers.

Fast fashion problems

[09:30] Then we discuss the issues of fast fashion and the challenges of trying to change the system. Geoff sees signs that the sector realises the customer is changing. People expect brands to do the right thing.

[12:47] We discuss the challenges already emerging from the coronavirus (the UK was one week away from ‘lockdown’ at the time of recording). We talk about how it is likely to change behaviour and spending habits. In addition, it is exposing those companies who don’t have true visibility of their supply chains.

Baukjen’s supply chain

[09:35] Geoff explains how the supply chain is managed and how the company is moving to more sustainable fabrics. It is moving away from organic cotton as there are much better options, including Ecosphere and Tencel. For recycled fabric options, it is working with its largest factory in Portugal, developing a patented mechanic recycling process.

[16:47] We hear how Baukjen eliminates overproduction by designing and producing in small batches. That moves us onto the hidden issues of supply chain waste across the fashion industry.

Circular flows

[20:12] Geoff talks about some recent initiatives, including a social media campaign, encouraging people to ‘pass things on’. Recognising that this is inefficient, Isabella Oliver now offers a take-back campaign for any brand of maternity wear. However, now that customers are returning bundles with a mixture of different clothing brands, it is easy to see the difference in quality between Isabella Oliver and other maternity wear brands.

All the returns are triaged, with some being suitable for resale, as ‘pre-loved’ items on the Isabella Oliver website and others being passed to end-user charities. Currently though, most have to go to the factory in Portugal for recycling.

Clothing rental and designing for longevity

[26:12] Research highlighted lots of interest in renting clothes, with one-third of Baukjen customers keen to rent certain items. Clothing rental is fast-becoming a perfectly acceptable solution. Baukjen designs for longevity, not just with a season in mind. Baukjen’s design team choose colours and shapes that will work for several years, not just ‘right now’.

Top tips for aspiring circular businesses

[32:12] Geoff’s shares his top tip for startups and existing businesses: “it’s a mindset shift. Go on a journey with your suppliers and customers, and bring your team with you.” Geoff is confident that you will be amazed. People will buy into it and want to collaborate. You need to work with the people who want to change. This is a movement, and you need to be taking everyone with you.

[33:12] We finish with guest recommendations and how to get in touch with Geoff and Baukjen.